Today's Hard|Forum Post
Today's Hard|Forum Post

HEATKILLER IV Pro Threadripper Water Block Review

WaterCool.de does not mess around when it comes to water cooling enthusiasts computers for well over a decade now. Many of us have been waiting with bated breath for Watercool's entry into the Threadripper cooling market, and it finally is with the HEATKILLER IV Pro. We compare it to five other water blocks.

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Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO Breakdown

Let's get into the nuts and bolts of the HEATKILLER IV PRO, or at least the bolts since no nuts are required.

The cold plate is nickel plated copper as most of us have come to appreciate in high end cooling hardware. The micro-fins are cut into the cold plate and are very substantial in terms of footprint.

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As you can see with our "true to size" Threadripper die footprint, the micro-fins easily cover the dies down on the substrate. This is easily the largest footprint we have seen in any Threadripper water block. Now whether or not being "bigger than needed" will be of any benefit is yet to be seen.

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The polished mating surface of the cold plate is beautifully done. This one is so high polished that it was difficult to get a picture of the surface without the camera focusing on what is reflected.

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The top-block is machined from "Acrylic (Plexiglas GS)." It is tough stuff and has a nice feel to it, however it is susceptible to scratches, like all plastic, so handle it with care if you are concerned about it keeping its spiffy look.

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The machining on the top-block is extremely well done and finished and the threading was done just as well and was cleaned well after those were cut.

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The flow plate is brush polished on each side as well giving it a clean look.

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Our top-block cover, which houses the Frag Harder Disco Lights, is aluminum that has been anodized black. Again, all machining and fishing is near-perfect. The screening on the cover is done perfectly too and looks to be very robust.

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Assembly and disassembly of the block is easy. The aluminum cover and cold-plate sandwich the Plexiglas top-block in terms of assembly. The hex-head bolts thread into the aluminum cover making everything held in place very firmly. The O-rings used are NBR (nitrile/Buna-N) 70 durometer rubber, which is oil resistant and has a long lifespan. It is commonly used in industrial hose and pipe couplings. The channels for the O-rings are nice and deep and hold the rings in place well when you go to put everything back together. The flow plate also sits down into edges machined into the top-block so positioning is no issue.

We like these fasteners. The threading on the hold-down posts is well done and more importantly is that the springs used are of a sufficient spring rate to give us a good mating footprint, as we will how you on the next page. This type of direct attachment is a better design in terms of use compared to mounting posts with thumbnuts on those. However one place Watercool dropped the ball is not having these hold-down fixed in place. I dropped these damn things every time I used these. A simple groove cut into the post with a retaining ring would have solved this. However, it is very unlikely that you will be taking these on and off multiple times like we do on our test bench. Just be careful with these, because when these springs hit the floor, if not carpeted, like to take off and hide.

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Watercool includes a very long hex key in order to install your HEATKILLER IV PRO. The instructions on installation are very clear and concise. I did however lose the tool as I was doing a lot of cleaning and reorganizing here in my office this week. You can see the installation key in the unboxing video however.

Most notable in the instructions is to not use force on the hold-downs. Once the hold-down bottoms out into the socket, you do not need to torque it any. Once you feel it bottom out, stop turning.

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